Mom and Dad bi Libnan!

On Sunday, after much fretting and expensive texting and checking flight statuses online, Mom and Dad arrived in Beirut! When I saw them at the airport, of course, I teared up. It was SO good to see them, as I had started to feel homesick here. And it was amazing to be able to spend time with them in Lebanon, like I had always dreamed of. However, they came during one of my busiest weeks here! I had two exams and one quiz. So I sent them on a few day trips, and then on the weekend, we got to go around the country together. Mom might post something with some of her pictures and her thoughts on being here, too! Anyway, we hung out and went out to eat several times, tried some new restaurants, introduced them to some ones I knew already.

On Saturday, the driver they hired (and thank God they did hire a driver! I kept picturing Dad driving just as crazy as all the Lebanese, and Mom clutching at her seat and pressing her imaginary break and yelling "JOHN!" at every turn...), Jean, a great tour guide who knew the country so well and was hilarious and very friendly, took us up to the Cedars and Hamat (the town where my family is from). We knew it was a long drive, but it ended up taking us much longer than we expected to get to the Cedars. Once we got to Becharre, a beautiful region filled with mountains, we kept stopping to take pictures.

From BEIRUT!

Like I've said so many times before, my camera couldn't possibly capture the vast beauty of the land, but Mom's did a little bit of a better job. Here are some of her pictures (put up more, Momma!!) and here are mine, again. The mountains were just amazing though. I was so happy to finally take this trip because it was what I pictured Lebanon like. I could spend weeks up there -- it was so peaceful and the land was so beautiful. I couldn't stop staring, and feeling so satisfied, so blessed, so complete.

This was the area Khalil Gibran grew up in, and was buried in. We visited the Gibran Museum tucked into the mountains, and spent some time looking at all the original paintings and drawings of his. The museum is in a cool building, too. It was originally a monastery, but Gibran had his sister buy it so that he could be buried there when he died.

Next stop -- the Cedars!

From BEIRUT!

Against the backdrop of the mountains, it was another sight that was just indescribable. It was much cooler up in the mountains (which was nice because I heard it was a hot day in Beirut!), and it was, again, so nice to be able to share this experience with Mom and Dad. Perfect day. I just wish the rest of the family could have been there!!! Next year, inshallah!!

From BEIRUT!

We continued on through the mountains...

From BEIRUT!

...until we got to the Monastery of Qozhaya, in the area where St. Anthony supposedly lived (or maybe it was just built in honor of him? Not sure now...). The architecture was beautiful, but you really didn't need that as a source of beauty when you're in mountains like this. They called the valley it was in "Holy Valley", and I'm sure it wasn't just because of the monastery. :)

From BEIRUT!

By this time, it was about 6 or so, and we hadn't even visited Hamat yet!! We had originally planned to visit for lunch and be back in Beirut by evening, but that obviously didn't happen. However, we got to see the sun set in Hamat (here's a picture of Hamat from the road -- it's on this plateau.)

From Beirut

And we got to meet some of the family, and I got to see the house where my great grandmother, Mae Khoury, lived. Again, Mom's pictures are better than mine, but here's one of the most important: all of us around the kubbi mixing bowl!!

From BEIRUT!

Also, our little cousins are the most adorable things ever. Of course I'm convinced that all Arab babies are the most darling babies in the world, but especially ones that are a part of my family! And Mom mentioned that it was fun walking around Lebanon because she kept seeing people who looked (and acted) like they could be in our family. It's interesting, because I have definitely felt the same way. Even though I know I probably stick out as an American, and a lot of the language goes over my head, I don't feel particularly like an outsider. I think it's probably because everyone looks like family! It's really fun.

After visiting our family and the house (please look at both Mom's and my Picasa's for more pictures!), we visited the Saidet el Nourieh Monastery in Hamat. It has another amazing view of the Mediterranean. It looked like the gates of Heaven were going to open up at any moment.

From Beirut

And then we returned finally to Beirut. It was such an amazing day, and I know that is really a short synopsis of it all, but I can't wait for me and my parents to tell you all the rest of the stories! The rest of their visit was just as great. It was so hard to believe I was actually there in Lebanon, and there in Hamat (!) with my parents. And Dina arrived on Wednesday! So we got to spend time with her and Adib and their parents too. Dina took us to some little shops in Hamra on Friday afternoon and then we went to the gold souq (market)! How fun. Though Dad and Dina were convinced that it really is a global market now, it was still fun to go shopping for gold in Lebnaon.

And on the last night of my parents' visit, we all went over to Dina and Adib's house. Their mom cooked us a DELICIOUS feast with kibbi, quiche, meat and eggplant, tabouli, and creme caramel, and probably more that I just can't remember! Everything was delicious, and we were all stuffed by the end. It was such a perfect ending to a great visit. Just wished they had stayed a little longer and that I wasn't so busy! But next year, it will be even better. :)

Now that I've spent about two hours blogging, it's time for me to finally do some homework. I miss you all and love you and can't wait to see you. I'll be home soon, it's so hard to believe! I return on August 7, which is just 2 and a half weeks away, and I know it will fly by. I'll try to be better about blogging, and post another post this week, so that I can include more of the day to day details. Until then, I'll keep eating Lebanese food for all of you.

Jeita, Harissa, Byblos

What an overdue post! Two Saturdays ago, everyone in the program took a trip to Jeita, Harissa, and Byblos. It was a VERY long day, but it was really great to get out of the city and see more of the country. Our first stop, Jeita, is a cave that is gorgeous and huge, but you're not allowed to take pictures inside it. :( But it was really breathtaking. In the upper grotto you walk into the cave, and keep going into rooms that are each different and gorgeous. It seems endless upward and downward. In the lower grotto, you take a boat ride that's shorter, but just as amazing. Apparently Jeita is being considered to be one of the "New Seven Wonders of the World", and it definitely has my vote. I had no idea caves could be like this! It made me actually think I SHOULD go to Mammoth Cave sometime...

Funny thing... While we were at Jeita, there were a bunch of tourists from rural India there. They had never seen Amerians before, so they were all shamelessly taking pictures and videos of us! It was really weird. Mainly just because they weren't trying to be discreet at all. They even asked some of us (including myself) to be in pictures with them. Kind of hilarious, but a little strange that we'll be in the photos of random Indians. Here is my attempt to photograph them photographing us.

From BEIRUT!

Anyway, our next stop was Harissa, which is this church on top of a hill that overlooks the town of Jounieh. The view is gorgeous, and sadly, my digital camera just couldn't capture the beauty, especially because it was a bit cloudy that day. We took this ride up that terrified Mom once she found out about it. But we did get a great view of the town on the sea!

From BEIRUT!

Anyway, Harissa was beautiful. There is a large statue of Mary that overlooks the town below and you can walk up the spiral to the top for the best view. Here is a picture of me on my way up to the top of the statue (you can see the rest of my pictures here, of course!)

From BEIRUT!

Our final stop was Byblos. By this time in the afternoon, we were all starved because we had only eaten breakfast and it was about 4:00. We went to this restaurant right on the water for "lunch" (The Lebanese do lunch at usually about 2ish or 3 and dinner at like 9 or 10. Lunch is the big meal in the day, and you just eat something small for dinner usually.) and it was going to be a feat to feed us to satiety. But, of course, this was a Lebanese restaurant. We began lunch with salad and mezza -- all the good things: fatoush, tabouli, hommous, spinach/meat pies (fatayer), kibbi (oooh the kibbi....), grape leaves, everything you can imagine! It was perfect. Everything was delicious, and it was cool with the breeze and beautiful view right on the sea. Perfect pace. So we ate and ate and ate, and by the end, I was stuffed... and then the waiters began to take away our plates, to uncover yet another plate. I was confused -- surely there wasn't MORE food? And then they brought out the meat! It was so delicious, but I really could only have a few pieces because I had already eaten so much. Then came the fresh fruit for dessert and, of course, coffee. What a lunch!

After that, we were all ready to go to bed, but we took a boat ride as the sun was beginning to set over Byblos. We rode around with Arabic pop music playing and just enjoying the sea and the view.

From BEIRUT!

One of my favorite things about Lebanon is the mountains, and they extend all the way to the coast. So all the cities right along the coast are built on the mountainside, and the buildings overlook the sea and the houses and roads roll up and down the hills. It makes a gorgeous sight at sunset. It was how I saw Beirut first from the plane... when I didn't have a window seat even though I was supposed to. Otherwise I would have taken a picture then, but here's one now!

From BEIRUT!

And then my parents came!!!!!

First of all, my apologies for taking forever to blog and being so bad about keeping in touch via email, etc!!

Second of all, I've added new pictures!

I'm feeling settled in now, and the homesickness has started to hit me, but it comes in waves. I've definitely gotten to know people better here, which has been fun and makes me feel much more settled and at home. And of course, Dina's family has just been so great. I went out to eat with them last weekend and it was just perfect -- just what I needed. They have been so, so sweet and hospitable. Really, all of Lebanon has been. Daniel asked me what big cultural differences I have noticed here are, and I told him that the biggest thing I notice is just how nice people are! It's so easy to start conversation with a stranger, even if I'm just stumbling through my words, using the Classical Arabic... People just smile and encourage me to keep trying, or just smile and respond in English. I'd prefer responses in Arabic, but I know they're just trying to be helpful (and it's a valid concern -- if they do respond in Arabic it does usually take me a couple times to get what they're saying). And even when someone does respond in English, I can always tell that they appreciate my effort to speak Arabic.

From BEIRUT!

Last Friday we took a field trip to downtown Beirut, where the above picture is taken, with a couple of my friends from class. We also visited the gorgeous mosque below, but sadly we didn't have time to go in.

From BEIRUT!

We also saw Martyrs' Square, some ruins, Rafik Hariri's memorial, another mosque, and an old church. My favorite part of the church was seeing the Arabic script next to the pictures of the saints because it seemed like a juxtaposition of cultures. I think because Jesus and the saints seem to be depicted as white -- but maybe I just am not looking closely enough? What do you all think?

From BEIRUT!

This week wasn't as bad for homework, but next week I have two exams -- ya allah! Ma'lish, I'll be fine because my parents will be here!! I do feel like my Arabic is improving, but I still have a LONG way to go. I'm also feeling much more of a desire to learn the Colloquial instead of just Classical. Of course, I see the importance in both, I love the history and the richness of the Fusha, but it feels useless if I can't use it to communicate! My dialect class is always fun, the teachers have a lot of energy, and we learn the basic fundamentals for living in Beirut. Anyway, I try and speak Arabic when I'm out in restaurants or stores or wherever. Today my friends Claire and Brittany and I went downtown for dinner and went to Virgin Records Megastore this evening, and they have books too, so we of course went to the Arabic children's books because they were about the appropriate reading level for us... So I bought a couple books that really are adorable. But when I was checking out, I was attempting to speak Arabic, and the guy who was working the cash register and two other employees got the biggest kick out of my attempt at Arabic and my purchase of children's books. Of course, I was laughing and stumbling over my words, and they were smiling and laughing back, and helping me out. I was pretty entertained myself.

My class took a field trip to a couple Arabic bookstores the other day, and I was trying to say something or other and there was a boy there, maybe in his early teens, who kept smiling and finishing my sentences for me. I really don't know why I'm attempting to speak another language when I often can't even spit out words in English!! Regardless, it makes for entertaining interactions. And I'm definitely improving. I have gone from speaking no colloquial to speaking enough to get by, and definitely understanding much more, in just a couple weeks. And I got mistaken for Lebanese today!! I was pretty excited. Someone pulled over to ask for directions (which I obviously did not know) and was surprised when I spoke in English.

I also visited the CD store that Adib works at today. I spent close to two hours just listening to CDs he recommended and biding my time choosing which ones to buy. I bought quite the variety -- some local stuff, some in Arabic, some in English, all very good and interesting and new. I'm excited to listen more!

Also, Claire and Brittany and I went to the knitting store I found in Beirut because Claire and I both knit. It was a cute little shop, called Y.Knot, but unfortunately, they didn't have any local yarn. It was all imported, and they were good brands, just expensive, and the same ones we have in the US.

I'm just going to keep jumping around in my thoughts, so bear with me. ;) Anyway, I'm really enjoying my classes. I love both of my professors. They have quite the personalities. And my classmates are fun too. We have a small class - 7 including myself - and we have a great dynamic. Lots of sarcasm, joking, and teasing, between classmates and the professors. A lot of fun.

Tomorrow the whole program (or anyone from it who wants to) is going on a trip outside Beirut to Byblos, Jeita, and Harisa. And I love Beirut, but I'm really excited to go see the rest of the country. Part of me feels shocked I haven't left the city yet! The mountains and sea are supposed to be beautiful, so I can't wait to go.

Anyway, one more picture for you. I promised a picture of a cute cat, and here it is:

From BEIRUT!

Oh, also, just because I said I would -- I posted an update on my knitting blog. :) I'm off to bed now to rest up for my trip tomorrow -- we leave at 8:30 am! Eek. Watch for pictures soon because I know I'll post way too many after this trip. Can't wait!

Note to self: Good Lebanese restaurants - al-beit, al-balad (downtown)

Settling In...

It's been a week, now, but I haven't completely established a routine yet. The homework is a lot! Last night wasn't so bad but the night before, it was about 5 and a half hours (make it 6 or 7, while I'm "multitasking" on Facebook and the like), and I still didn't do a couple of the exercises! Luckily, it was just oral preparation for some questions, and no one else really did them either. But still! It took everyone in the class about that length of time, so I guess I'm not lagging behind or anything, just complaining a little. ;)

The food is still delicious. There is this place right across the street from campus called Bliss House that has amazing taouk. I love that food is so cheap here too. And I haven't tried their soft serve yet, but I hear it's amazing. I've never really had soft serve that knocked me off my feet, so my hopes aren't extremely high? Isn't all soft serve the same? I did try their Italian ice cream though -- tayib jiddan (very good)! Today a few people from class and I wandered down the other way on Bliss Street, to find fata'ir, the name for spinach/meat/cheese pies. I got a big spinach pie and a big piece of pita bread with cheese and zaatar (thyme) on it and wrapped up like a sandwich. Plus some juice because I have been craving fruit like whoa. Anyway, it's pretty awesome to have Lebanese food everywhere. I want to find somewhere that has mujadarrah. I'll keep you all posted.

I don't know that I can go so far as to say I'm learning the area yet, but I'm defintely being introduced to it! Bliss Street is the street that AUB is on, and it has a lot of fast food restaurants, both American (bleh) and Lebanese (yes!). A few streets south of Bliss is Hamra, which is famous for its shopping. I haven't really checked it out yet, though -- heard it was expensive! Last weekend, a big group from the program went to this Italian restaurant, which was fun because I got to meet a few other people from the program. As I kind of expected, there are a lot of Americans here, and some Europeans. I've met a few girls from England, and a couple guys from Switzerland and the rest American so far. A lot of people in the program are full or half Lebanese too, but just don't speak the language (or at least the Classical Arabic), so that has been fun meeting other people who are Lebanese.

After the restaurant, my friend Jeff and I went to Gemayzee, this area that has a lot of pubs and is always busy. We were walking around and then we walked up these huge steps they have at the end of the street. They were having an art show that they have apparently every year on the steps, so that was fun to see. Also, the music in the pubs (or one of them) was interesting. It was a pretty chill atmostphere, besides the loud, techno/club-ish music. My favorite was a techno remix of the Jurassic Park theme song.

I keep forgetting to take pictures while I'm off campus, but I will remember next time, I promise! I put up a few more pictures on Picasa, but they are all from on campus. Still beautiful, though!

Exhibit A:

From BEIRUT!

Random side note to break up the pictures: I find that I am clicking my tongue a lot, which I feel is a Lebanese thing, but maybe not? I think I use it mainly in playful disapproval/reprimand, but now that I am practicing in my room, I can't figure out when I do it and it just keeps sounding weirder and weirder right now.

From BEIRUT!

Another side note: All the Lebanese people here say my name "Tereza", and I LOVE it. I feel so exotic.

From BEIRUT!

And here is a picture of some of the cats on campus. These ones aren't as cute as some of them though, like the kittens. :) Also, apparently some lady left an endowment just reserved for the cats. I was wondering how they got food, and I guess that money pays for it all -- this morning I saw a few cats eating cat food from a plate. Interesting! I wonder if the cat lady was a knitter...

Speaking of knitting, I should really update my other blog sometime too! I'll be sure to plug it here when I do. Now, it's time to start on al-waajib (homework. bah.) But hopefully some other girls in my class and I might go to a coffee shop to work later. That would certainly make it more bearable. Everyone at school knows I love my social studying! Where is LaFortune when I need it?? Well thank you all for your sweet comments and emails and thoughts and prayers!